Sevilla! Tourism Chronicles - Day Three of Seven
- Charles Jordan
- Feb 16
- 5 min read
Updated: Mar 31
Exploring the Rich History and Culture of Sevilla: A Series
Previously we wrote a Sevilla, Spain travel guide and the first and second articles in this series of seven, chronicling our recent visit to Sevilla. If you haven't already, you may wish to read them before this. Or maybe you're mostly interested in the places mentioned in this one. Whichever the case may be, we're glad you're here learning about our magical trip to Sevilla.
Day 3
Itálica
We started day three of our adventure in Sevilla taking a 15 minute taxi from the Cathedral to Itálica. Our daughter had visited it previously and told us what a gem of a place it was. We arrived with only plastic in our wallets and they only take cash. Fortunately there was a service station nearby and the attendant was able to help us get a small amount of cash (no ATM). Admission is only 1.5€ per person. So, just be aware of this and arrive with enough cash in your pocket. We're so glad we picked up the very informative brochure when we visited because we're using it to jog our memory while writing about it.
Itálica was a Roman city dating all the way back to 206 BC. Much of the original city is now buried beneath the neighboring town of Santiponce. The part you'll see if your fortunate enough to go was built under the rule of Hadrian (117-138 BC). When you visit, you'll wander through an amphitheater, walk along the main avenues of the city, enjoy the intricate mosaic floors serving as remnants of the houses that existed long ago, view the baths, peer into a bird sanctuary, and much more.
This roman city was largely forgotten until the 16th century when poet and humanist Rodrigo Caro began its rediscovery. In the 17th and 18th centuries, key figures like fray Fernando de Zevallos and Francisco de Bruna contributed to understanding its ruins. In the 19th century, romantic travelers revived interest, while Demetrio de los Ríos led more formal excavations and his successor José Amador de los Ríos exposed ongoing looting.
Itálica was declared a National Monument in 1912, marking the beginning of organized archaeological efforts. Throughout the 20th century, scholars like Antonio García y Bellido advanced the study and preservation of the site. In 1989, the Regional Ministry of Culture took charge, overseeing protection, research, and conservation.
After our leisurely visit to Itálica it was time to meet for lunch in Triana. We arrived a half an hour early. So we found a table at a bar in the Mercado de Triana where we enjoyed Cruz Campo beer and rosé wine from the Rueda region.
Lunch at MaríaTrifulca
When in Sevilla, if you want to have lunch at a nice restaurant with delicious food, attentive service, and a nice wine list, all with an excellent view of Sevilla across the river from a rooftop terrace, MariaTrifulca fits the bill. It's easy to find because it's right across the street from the Mercado de Triana (a fun place to shop and dine) on the Triana side of the Isabel II Bridge (Puente de Isabel II). It's not inexpensive, but it's also not over the top pricy. Our bill was less than 75€ per person and we enjoyed several starters such as burrata with tartar, croquettes, fresh oysters, and bread and picos, of course. If you don't know what picos are, you'll find out when you visit. They are crunchy, bite-sized breadsticks that are often served with tapas, olives, or cheese. They are a part of Spanish tapas culture and are especially common in the Andalusia region of southern Spain.
The main dishes we enjoyed were tuna ribs (costillas de atun), red tuna tartar (tartar de atun rojo), estuary sole (lenguado de estero), and Iberian pork shoulder steak (presa ibérica) prepared with a brandy sauce. Of course this was all accompanied by two types of french fries and some sautéed mixed vegetables. A couple of bottles of rosé wine helped us wash it all down. And we shared the cheesecake for dessert.
A word to the wise, if you have a reservation for an outdoor terrace table and the weather is rainy or windy, they'll cancel your reservation (this disclaimer is on their website when you make the reservation). We had reserved a table inside. When we arrived we asked if we could be seated on the terrace. Fortunately for us they had a table available! It was a very memorable, long lunch with plenty of great conversation and some good laughs.
Museo de Bellas Artes
The Museo de Bellas Artes de Sevilla is a treasure trove of Spanish art, housing works from the medieval period to the early 20th century. The museum features an impressive collection of paintings by renowned artists such as Murillo, Zurbarán, Francisco de Herrera the younger, and Valdés Leal, who were prominent during the Golden Age of painting in Sevilla in the 17th century. It's just 1.50€ per person to enter and you don't need to purchase tickets ahead of time.
Visitors can admire a portrait of the famous Spanish literary figure Gustavo Adolfo Béquer, as well as masterpieces by El Greco. Another highlight is the vibrant painting "Sevilla en Fiestas" by Gustavo Bacarisas, which captures the lively spirit of Seville's festivals.
The museum itself is housed in a former monastery, beautifully renovated in the Mudéjar style, and features stunning patios that offer a serene escape. These patios, with their lush greenery and tranquil fountains, provide a perfect backdrop for reflecting on the art within.
Whether you're an art enthusiast or a casual visitor, the Museo de Bellas Artes de Sevilla offers a rich and diverse experience that showcases the best of Spanish artistic heritage.
Hospital de los Venerables
After spending an hour or so in the lovely fine arts museum, we made our way back to the Santa Cruz neighborhood to see the Hospital Los Venerables. This memorable little building was built in 1675 to house elderly priests. Initially funded by the Brotherhood of Silence, it served as a residence for priests until the 1970s. Over time, it also functioned as a textile factory and now houses the Velázquez Center. This beautiful structure is tucked away in the Judería in the Santa Cruz neighborhood.
The central patio, the cover photo of this article) features a stepped fountain with circular steps decorated with tiles. Surrounding the courtyard are galleries with Tuscan arches on marble columns. Upstairs, there's an art gallery showcasing works by Diego Velázquez and other Sevillian artists. The beautiful chapel pictured here was built in 1689 and is dedicated to San Fernando. The stunning frescoes adorning its interior were created by Valdés Leal and his son Lucas Valdés. The visit was less than an hour and we're so glad we made the time to see it. If you plan to be in Sevilla and can squeeze this into your schedule, it won't disappoint!
We finished our day with some tapas for dinner in the Santa Cruz neighborhood followed by a bit of carousing with the younger crowd. All in all it was a well rounded day with a variety of intriguing, fun, beautiful, and entertaining activities.
Day three of our Seville adventure was a captivating blend of ancient history, delightful dining, and cultural enrichment. From our fascinating exploration of Itálica, with its rich Roman legacy, to the leisurely lunch at MaríaTrifulca with stunning views of the city, every moment was memorable. The artistic treasures at the Museo de Bellas Artes and the charming visit to the Hospital de los Venerables added layers of beauty and history to our day. Concluding with tapas in the Santa Cruz neighborhood, we enjoyed great company, conversation, and laughter. Seville continues to enchant us with its diverse experiences and timeless charm, leaving us eagerly anticipating the adventures that lie ahead.
Did you learn anything new about Sevilla today? What ar you planning to see when you visit?
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