Sevilla! Tourism Chronicles - Day Six of Seven
- Charles Jordan
- Mar 17
- 8 min read
Updated: Mar 31
Exploring the Rich History and Culture of Sevilla: A Series
Previously we wrote a Sevilla, Spain travel guide and the first five articles in this series of seven, chronicling our recent visit to Sevilla (Day One, Day Two, Day Three, Day Four, Day Five). If you haven't already, you may wish to read them before this. Or maybe you're mostly interested in reading about our day trip to Ronda. Whichever the case may be, we're glad you're here learning more about our memorable experiences in Sevilla.
Our Day Trip to Ronda
In anticipation of an exciting day trip to Ronda, we made a conscious effort to turn in early the night before. Knowing that we needed to get an early start to make the most of the day, we left our hotel in the Santa Cruz neighborhood at 9:00 AM and walked the short distance to Parking Plaza Nueva, where our rental car had been waiting overnight. Our plan was to return the car in Sevilla by 9:00 PM, giving us a solid eight hours to explore Ronda after accounting for the four-hour round-trip drive.
The two-hour drive to Ronda took us through scenic yet occasionally slow-moving single-lane roads. As we neared our destination, the terrain gradually became more hilly, with the winding roads requiring some careful navigation. Despite the slightly cautious pace, the beauty of the journey set the tone for the day ahead. At times we caught glimpses of villages we had read about, like Zahara. When we passed the exit for Setenil de las Bodegas, we wondered if we might have time to stop there. We had discussed it as a group and decided that our main focus should be Ronda. Still, with the rental car we had some flexibility and would be able to modify things on a whim.
Arrival in Ronda and Discovering Carrera Espinel
We arrived in Ronda and parked at Parking Martínez Astein, which we had selected during our planning as the most convenient option. Located at the northeast end of Carrera Espinel—also known as Calle La Bola—the parking was just steps away from this iconic pedestrian shopping street.
Carrera Espinel has a long history. The street spans approximately 700 meters and was officially named after Vicente Espinel, a writer and musician from Ronda. Historically, it was known as Calle La Bola due to a traditional ball game once played there. In the 1970s, it was pedestrianized, becoming one of Andalusia's longest commercial streets. Today, it is a bustling hub of shops and cafes, and a delightful route for both locals and visitors (source: https://www.ronda.net/portal/callejero/carrera-espinel, downloaded on March 12, 2025).
Walking downhill along Carrera Espinel, we passed inviting shops, mentally marking a few for later. At bottom of the street we arrived at the bullring which was later on the day's agenda. We turned left on Calle Virgen de la Paz and continued for about another minute to a small plaza, Plaza España, on the north side of Puente Nuevo, the iconic bridge that spans the Tajo de Ronda gorge. The vistas from this spot were breathtaking, showcasing the gorge and surrounding landscape in all their glory. However, the highlight was yet to come.
By the way, if we were to stay in Ronda, we would try to book a room at the Parador which is in an historic building on Plaza España. The Parador, established in 1994 in the former town hall and food market buildings, retains the original Casa Consistorial façade with its arcades, cornices, and clock. It houses an extensive bullfighting art collection, featuring over 100 works that span styles from Romanticism and Goyaesque influences to expressionism, pop culture, and geometric abstraction. (Source: https://paradores.es/en/parador-de-ronda, downloaded on March 17, 2025)
The Gorge: A Memorable Descent and Awe-Inspiring Views
By the Parador there's an entrance to one of the paths down into the gorge. This one has a small fee. But there's another path down that's free. So we did that instead.
Beyond the plaza we crossed the Puente Nuevo and turned right onto Calle Tenorio, exploring a few shops before arriving at Plaza de María Auxiliadora. From here, we began our descent into the gorge along a cobblestone path. The hike was a standout experience, offering not only incredible views of the Puente Nuevo from below but also a chance to immerse ourselves in the natural beauty of the area. The sloping path required sturdy shoes, and we were relieved not to have a stroller in tow like one of the brave families we encountered along the way.
Each step further into the gorge revealed new perspectives of the bridge, its grandeur magnified from this vantage point. We paused occasionally, both to catch our breath and to marvel at the scene. Once at the bottom, we found perfect spots for photos, with fellow travelers kindly offering to take group shots.
The return trek uphill was a light workout, but the effort was well worth it. As we reached the top, we rewarded ourselves with refreshments at El Morabito, a terrace cafe overlooking the gorge. Two friendly resident cats kept us company as we relaxed and reflected on our journey.
Shopping, Lunch, and the Bullring
After our break, we retraced our steps along Calle Tenorio and did some shopping. Among the offerings were souvenir shops, antique stores, and those selling handcrafted table linens. Though we found linens we loved, we decided to return for them later to avoid carrying them all afternoon.
For lunch, we headed to Restaurante Abades, located near the bullring. Our long, leisurely meal included a variety of gourmet dishes. Among them were:
Goat Cheese Salad with Apple,
Tomato Salad with Tuna Belly and Roasted Pepper Salmorejo,
Cold Tomato Soup with Crispy Ham with Cheese Ice Cream,
Parttridge Paté with Reduction of Pedro Ximénez and Toasted Almonds,
Sea Bass with Vegetable Cous Cous,
Baby Lamb Blade Slowly Cooked with Seasonal Mushrooms and Light Juice,
Mushroom Ravioli with Carbonara Sauce, and
Oxtail with Fried Potatoes
If this sounds inventive and delicious to you, it was! And the service was impeccable. We would return to this restaurant, for sure! What would you order at this restaurant?
Following lunch, we toured the Bullring of the Royal Cavalry of Ronda (Real Maestranza de Caballería de Ronda). Built in 1785, the bullring was initially used for equestrian games and tournaments held in honor of the monarchy. By 1789, it hosted two annual bullfights to support the maintenance of the institution. Today, the famous Goyaesque bullfight still takes place here, although the management is no longer direct. The site is also historically linked to equestrianism, as it was founded to promote this discipline among the city's young noblemen. It once owned a stud farm to advance horse breeding and continues to operate a prestigious school for classical equestrian training (source: https://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Real_Maestranza_de_Caballer%C3%ADa_de_Ronda, downloaded March 12, 2025).The self-guided tour took us through the equestrian area, the bullring itself, and a fascinating museum that offered insight into the traditions of Ronda.
Exploring More History and Festivities
After the bullring, we made our way to the Arab Baths, located downhill to the left of the Puente Nuevo. This self-guided tour took us through the ruins, enhanced by placards and a short film that explained their historical significance and usage. One of the really cool features of the baths were the built-in star shaped skylights throughout the interior of the space. The short film explains this. But, even on an overcast day the sunlight shone in and created a calming ambiance. We really enjoyed wandering around the grounds and the interior of the baths, imagining what things might have looked like such a long time ago.
The climb back to the town center was a bit steep in places, but not super challenging. As we approached the top of the hill we were energized by the sights and sounds of a religious ceremony taking place near the bridge. Children in costumes on stilts, and music created a festive atmosphere that we paused to enjoy.
On our way back to the car, we returned to Carrera Espinel for some shopping. We had made mental notes of shops to visit on our way down this lovely pedestrian street. And we were happy to have time to shop. We mostly looked in several shoe stores. We, being a generous term because at least one of us spent more time outside people watching, seeing the locals interact with each other. As evening fell, the Christmas lights and music came to life, creating a magical and festive ambiance. The street buzzed with locals celebrating the season, a perfect end to our day in Ronda.
Attractions We Couldn’t Visit
While planning this trip, we had written about several additional attractions in Ronda, but time constraints forced us to make some tough choices. Among the sites we considered but couldn’t visit were the Old Bridge (Puente Viejo), a pedestrian-only bridge built in 1616; the Roman Bridge (Puente Romano), a medieval structure dating to the 14th century; and the Palace of the Marquis of Salvatierra. We also had to skip the Gardens of the House of the Moorish King and the Ruins of the Roman Theater of Acinipo, located 20 kilometers outside of Ronda. We think it might be fun to stay at the Parador mentioned earlier and spend time exploring these other places of interest.
Had we left Sevilla earlier, returned later, or opted for a quicker lunch, we might have been able to squeeze in a brief stop at Setenil de las Bodegas, one of the renowned white villages. However, given our love for long, relaxing meals and the appeal of Ronda's main attractions, we chose to fully immerse ourselves in what the city itself had to offer.
Wrapping Up the Day
Back in Sevilla, we refueled the car (€51 for over six hours of driving) before returning it near Plaza de Armas. Our evening concluded with tapas at En La Espero Te Esquina and rooftop drinks at the Ático rooftop terrace.
For an authentic Andalusian dining experience, En La Espero Te Esquina is the perfect spot to savor traditional tapas with a creative twist. Beloved by locals for its standout dishes like patatas bravas (fried potatoes with smoked paprika sauce and aioli), montadito de pringá (small pringá* sandwiches), and croquetas de jamón (serrano ham croquettes), it combines delicious flavors with affordability. Tourists are equally charmed by its welcoming atmosphere and attentive staff, making it a fantastic choice to immerse yourself in Sevilla’s rich culinary culture.
*Pringá is a traditional Andalusian dish made from slow-cooked meats like roast pork or beef, cured sausages such as chorizo and morcilla, and pork or beef fat. The tender, flavorful mixture is often served as a tapa, tucked into bread rolls (montaditos).
If you’re looking for a more elevated experience—both literally and figuratively—Ático Rooftop Bar offers unbeatable views of the Sevilla skyline. Locals praise its stylish ambiance and expertly crafted cocktails, while tourists highlight its unique perspective on the city. Though we didn’t make it in time for sunset, the city illuminated at night was simply stunning, providing a chic and unforgettable setting to unwind and take in the magic of Sevilla. Dressing snappy casual ensured we blended seamlessly into the upscale vibe of the bar.
Our day in Ronda was an unforgettable blend of breathtaking landscapes, rich history, and delicious cuisine. While time constraints prevented us from visiting every attraction, the experiences we did enjoy left a lasting impression.
Are you planning to visit Ronda? What’s one experience you absolutely don’t want to miss?
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