Sevilla! Tourism Chronicles - Day Seven of Seven
- Charles Jordan
- Mar 24
- 7 min read
Exploring the Rich History and Culture of Sevilla: A Series
Previously we wrote a Sevilla, Spain travel guide and the first five articles in this series of seven, chronicling our recent visit to Sevilla (Day One, Day Two, Day Three, Day Four, Day Five, Day Six). If you haven't already, you may wish to read them before this. Or perhaps you're mostly interested in reading about our activities during our final fun and enriching day in Sevilla. Whichever the case may be, we're glad you're here!
A Perfect Finale to a Week in Sevilla
With just one day remaining of our Sevilla adventure, the city continued to captivate us with its layers of history, culture, and flavor. Six days of exploration had only deepened our appreciation for its Andalusian soul, and our last day was the perfect blend of past and present. Here’s how we made the most of our final moments.
As you read about our time in Sevilla, think about your own must-see spots and share them with us!
Morning: A Step Back into History
Palace of the Countess of Lebrija
We started the day with a peaceful morning walk through the Santa Cruz neighborhood to the Palace of the Countess of Lebrija (Palacio de la Condesa de Lebrija), a 16th-century palace known for its Roman mosaics and Mudéjar-inspired architecture. Without knowing its history, you’d never guess that behind the unassuming facade lies the legacy of a prominent early 20th-century owner and her exquisite adornments.
The palace, originally dating back to the 16th century, gained new life in 1901 when Countess Regla Manjón Mergelina purchased and restored it over 13 years. She adorned the ground floor with Roman mosaics and archaeological treasures from various eras and cultures. The rooms were further enhanced with elements like Sevillian tilework from a ruined convent and wood ceilings from a palace in nearby Marchena. Wandering through the rooms of the palace felt like stepping back in time, surrounded by intricate designs and priceless artifacts, like the mosaic floors she had the foresight to rescue from pillaging in Itálica. The artistry and history of the palace were a perfect way to set the tone for the day.
The tour was divided into two parts, downstairs and upstairs, both included on the same ticket. We arrived just after 10 AM and purchased our ticket at the entrance. The ticket agents informed us that the guided portion of the tour would begin at 10:45 and that we should meet our tour guide a few minutes beforehand at the base of the staircase. The remainder of the palace was available to us to freely explore before and after the guided portion; with the upstairs cordoned off due to its exclusively guided nature. There were plenty of informational plaques, exhibit labels, and display signs identifying and describing the various artifacts, works, and architectural features.
The tour of the upstairs began at the top of the staircase where we were told about its origins and features. Then we entered the upper floor of the main courtyard and led clockwise around, entering the various rooms along the way. Each space was uniquely decorated for its purpose and we learned about the significant features and furnishings of each room. There were plenty of opportunities for questions along the way. Visiting this special palace was truly a unique and wonderful experience; one of our favorites, for sure.
Pilate's House
Our historical journey continued at Pilate's House (Casa de Pilatos), another spectacular palace blending Renaissance, Gothic, and Mudéjar styles. Built primarily between the 15th and 16th centuries, it was declared a National Monument in 1931. The palace owes much of its artistic and cultural significance to the Enríquez de Ribera family, who maintained close ties with Italy during the Golden Age. Over the centuries, it underwent various transformations, including Romantic-style renovations in the 19th century.
The palace is celebrated for its intricate design, combining elements from different eras, and has even served as a backdrop for numerous films. Located near the Alcázar and Cathedral, it is one of Sevilla's most iconic private residential complexes. The Enríquez de Ribera family expanded the Pilate's House by acquiring neighboring houses and plots of land between the 15th and 16th centuries. They integrated these properties into a cohesive architectural complex, adding halls, courtyards, and gardens. This process allowed the palace to evolve into the most opulent private residential complex in Sevilla.
When you visit, there are two separate tours, a tour of the ground floor and another of the upstairs. You can go to the top of the stairs without purchasing the upstairs tour. But you can't get beyond the door without a ticket and the assigned tour guide. We arrived at 12:30 and had to be in Triana by 2 PM for lunch. This gave us just an hour here, which is about enough time to tour the downstairs portion. We'll have to return someday to tour the upstairs rooms and admire and learn about the opulent furnishings there. This site offers a serene courtyard with bubbling fountains and decorative arches that transport you to another era. Parts of Game of Thrones were filmed here, which added a touch of cinematic excitement.
Lunch and Afternoon Entertainment
Arrocería Criaito for Paella!
Crossing the Isabel II bridge and entering the Mercado de Triana, we arrived at Arrocería Criaito for our pre-arranged paella lunch. Our lunch reservations, made a week or so earlier, were at 2 PM. Known for its delicious rice dishes, this spot was ideal for a relaxed meal. We opted for a delicious seafood paella, called "del Señorito" or "Señoret" which is a "gentleman's" paella adorned with shelled seafood (you don't have to use your fingers to remove shells yourself). Of course we also had plenty of bread and a a starter or two to share. All of this, paired with great company and our beverages of choice while soaking in the market’s vibrant energy, made for a truly memorable experience. It was the kind of lunch where the flavors linger in your memory long after the last bite.
If you go, we recommend calling several days ahead of time to make a reservation, and order the type of paella you prefer when you make the reservation. We were able to communicate with them on WhatsApp. You could also ask your hotel for assistance making the reservation.
After lunch, we strolled over to El Típico, a welcoming bar and one of our favorites, several blocks farther into Triana. From the market we walked along Calle San Jacinto with its shops and restaurants. Less than five minutes later we arrived and ordered some beer and wine. You can take your beverage outside and stand by the windows, enjoying each other's company while people watching. This is what we did. They have excellent tapas but we had filled our bellies at lunch. So, it was just beverages for us this time. The friendly staff and full tables alive with chattering patrons really make it feel like the perfect neighborhood hangout. If you find yourself in Triana looking for a tapas place, we know you'll enjoy this one.
Afternoon: Riverside Views and Santa Cruz Shopping
Calle Betis
Next, we walked along Calle Bétis, a charming street lined with colorful facades and views of the Torre del Oro across the river. Along the way we passed a number of bars and restaurants. We stopped at one with a sidewalk terrace and ordered some more refreshments. The area’s laid-back vibe invited us to slow down and share the moments with each other. Then it was time to make our way back to the Santa Cruz neighborhood.
Santa Cruz Shopping
We returned to Santa Cruz, the city’s historic heart, for some last-minute shopping. While we had one place in mind, that didn’t stop us from browsing other locations. Tucked along one of the quaint alleys of the Judería, Orange Tree Sevilla offers a variety of locally crafted souvenirs. We found ceramics, olive oil, other unique items, and even orange blossom gin. They offered tastings of various products in case you wanted to try something before purchasing it. This shop was perfect for bringing a touch of Sevilla home with us. Santa Cruz’s maze-like streets and hidden plazas are always a delight to wander, even if you don’t have a destination in mind.
Evening: Modern Architecture, Historic Dining, and Farewell Drinks
We wanted to do some more shopping on our last evening in Sevilla and we knew just where to go. One of the premier shopping streets in the historic part of Sevilla is Calle Sierpes. There's something for everyone. It runs north and south on the edge of the Santa Cruz neighborhood.
At the north end of the street you turn left and walk several blocks to las Setas. So, it fit the bill geographically, being just slightly out of the way. We enjoyed our shopping, looking in various shops. Then our group split up briefly as some of us wanted to be on our way sooner than others. We arrived at Plaza de la Encarnación, the location of Las Setas, and stopped into Café Square for a beer while we waited for the rest of our group.
Las Setas
In the evening just after dark, we visited the Setas de Sevilla, also known as the Metropol Parasol. This striking wooden structure is a modern architectural marvel and a popular spot for panoramic views of the city. Some recommend going for the sunset. but we went at night. The sight of Sevilla illuminated at night was stunning and felt magical among the waves of colored lights at our feet. No matter what time of day you go, you're sure to have wonderful views of the city in all its glory from a very unique perspective.
El Rinconcillo
Dinner was delicious tapas with great conversation and good laughs at El Rinconcillo, the city’s oldest bar, dating back to 1670. We enjoyed several traditional tapas and some beverages, of course. Standing at a hightop table across from the bar, we soaked in the rich history of the place. The food was tasty and the service was top notch. We certainly recommend it. It's a very popular destination. We lucked out and arrived just before they opened which meant we had no problem getting in and finding a table.
Reflecting on Sevilla
Looking back, Sevilla has been everything we imagined and more: a city steeped in history, alive with culture, and bursting with flavor. Each day offered its own unique experiences, and our final day was the perfect mix of old-world charm and modern delights. As we packed our bags, we found ourselves already dreaming of the next visit to this unforgettable city.
Have you visited these historical sites in Sevilla? Which of these places grabs your attention the most and why? We wold love to hear from you in the comments!
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