Sevilla! Tourism Chronicles - Day One of Seven
- Charles Jordan
- Feb 3
- 10 min read
Updated: Mar 31
Read our Sevilla Travel Guide First
In the end of October 2024 we published our first Sevilla travel guide "Sevilla! Travel Guide: Stunning Architecture, Beautiful Gardens, Delicious Food and So Much More." If you haven't read it yet, we recommend that you start there and then come back to this article. It's just a nine-minute read and covers the main attractions, some history, and other practical information.
Our Return to Beautiful Sevilla
We recently had the pleasure of returning to Sevilla for a week. Our daughter had been living there for a few months, so this was an opportunity for her to introduce us to some of her favorite activities, restaurants, and the typical nightlife in Sevilla beyond what an average first-time visitor might do. As such, we got to see and do things we didn't have time for during our previous visits. In this series of articles we'll share our new experiences. We were a group of five and not all of us had previously been to Sevilla. So, we repeated some of the things we had experienced on previous visits. It's interesting how you see things differently with each visit. You notice things you hadn't noticed, learn details you didn't learn the first, second, or even third time you went. So, we'll not only cover the new experiences but also provide new-to-us info about some of the attractions covered in our Sevilla Travel Guide linked in the first paragraph above.
Daily Agenda Sharing
We had prepared our agenda in a Google Slides presentation with some high level details, including timing, confirmation numbers, addresses, and so forth. Each morning, one of us would send a text message to the group with a more concise version of that day's agenda. This way everyone knew what was on the agenda for the day with timing. With this information at our finger tips, we all knew where and when we had planned to visit each attraction or restaurant each day at a glance. This is extremely helpful for groups of multiple travelers. We borrowed this tactic from the Cheese Journey we went on in May 2024 and we're glad we did! We decidedly made the morning events before 10AM optional because some members of our group like to start their day later than others.
Day One of Our Adventure
Plaza del Cabildo
Our first full day was a Sunday and our agenda started at Plaza del Cabildo. This is a tranquil, semi-circular "square" nestled in the heart of Sevilla, not too far from the Cathedral. It's known for its beautiful painted arches, part of a colonnade, and a segment of the city's original Moorish wall, reflecting its historical significance. Built on the site of the Colegio de San Miguel, which belonged to the Cathedral Cabildo (Council), the plaza showcases remnants of the school's patio pillars. Featuring a charming fountain and palm trees, it offers a serene escape from the busy area around the Cathedral. The plaza has several shops that add to its quaint appeal.
On Sunday mornings, the plaza hosts a market with stalls offering stamps, coins, military insignia, archaeological pieces, and other collectibles. We were there on a chilly, drizzly morning in late November. So, although some have described this market as lively, it was a bit chill. There were locals and tourists visiting the stalls. We had imagined something similar to the Rastro in Madrid but on a much smaller scale. Our guess is that it's much more lively when the weather is warm and the sky is blue. Plaza del Cabildo was specifically on the morning agenda because we had read about the market and we wanted to check it out. There were a couple dozen stalls. So, it didn't occupy a lot of time. If you go, you might find some treasures to take home as souvenirs. We really enjoyed seeing the old posters, pins, and post cards, some of which brought back memories of long ago visits to this welcoming city.
La Maestranza de Sevilla, one of Spain's most famous bullrings, offers a rich cultural experience.
Begin your tour in the Patio de Caballos, where bulls and horses are prepared for bullfights.
Visit the chapel, where matadors pray before entering the ring, and the infirmary, reflecting the dangers of bullfighting.
The museum showcases costumes worn by famous matadors, vintage posters, and historical artifacts, providing insights into the evolution of bullfighting.
Step into the bullring, admire the classic yellow sand and whitewashed walls, with seating areas offering clear views. And don't be shy. You and your partner can pretend to be bull and matador, playing around in the ring together.
The Royal Box provides a splendid vantage point for the Spanish royal family and dignitaries.
Conclude your visit at the gift shop, where you can find a variety of souvenirs, from postcards to traditional fans. We really enjoyed the gift shop and several of us found souvenirs. I seem to recall that they didn't accept cash, only cards for payment.
La Maestranza is not just a bullring but a symbol of Spanish culture and history, offering a unique glimpse into one of Spain's most iconic traditions.
The bullfighting season in Sevilla begins on Easter Sunday and concludes on October 12, which is significant as it coincides with Spain's National Day or Día de la Hispanidad. During this period, a variety of events are held at La Maestranza de Sevilla, including corridas (bullfights) and novilladas (fights with young bulls).
Social opinions on bullfighting in Sevilla are divided. While some locals and tourists view it as a vital part of Andalusian culture and heritage, reflecting bravery and tradition, others see it as a controversial practice and advocate for its abolition due to animal welfare concerns. Despite modern debates, bullfighting has historically been deeply ingrained in Spanish culture, especially in Sevilla, and continues to attract both supporters and critics. This cultural dichotomy adds to the unique experience of visiting La Maestranza and understanding its role in Sevilla's heritage.
Real Parroquia de Santa María Magdalena
The Real Parroquia de Santa María Magdalena is a beautiful Baroque church in Sevilla, with construction beginning in 1692 by the renowned architect Leonardo de Figueroa. The church was consecrated on October 22, 1724. Originally serving a Dominican monastery, it became a parish church after the monastery's closure in the 19th century. Visitors can admire its stunning Baroque architecture and serene interior.
Key features to look for include the main altar, adorned with intricate gold leaf decorations and a majestic altarpiece depicting various saints, as well as the breathtaking ceiling frescoes that portray biblical scenes and saints, and the side chapels, each dedicated to different saints and containing beautiful statues and religious artifacts. The church is open to visitors on Wednesdays and Thursdays until 1:30 PM, allowing visitors to explore after the last mass at 11:00 AM. Unfortunately, during our visit, we failed to properly plan and arrived when it was closed to the public. If you want to experience this but won't be in Sevilla when it's open to the public, the church's website offers a virtual tour, though it is in Spanish. Visiting the Real Parroquia de Santa María Magdalena virtually offers a unique opportunity to appreciate Sevilla's religious heritage and architectural beauty.
Of course we got to see this baroque church from the outside and it didn't disappoint. The church boasts a captivating Baroque facade that immediately grabs your attention. The exterior is adorned with intricate stonework, including elaborate sculptures, decorative columns, and elegant reliefs that showcase the artistry of the Baroque period. The cheerful colors of the facade stand out against the surrounding buildings, making it a prominent landmark in Sevilla.
As you approach the church strolling down Calle Reyes Católicos from the Paseo de Cristobal Colón/Puente de Isabel II, raise your view to the rooftops and you'll catch glimpses of the beautiful tiled roof and dome of the church. These features are especially striking from various street-level vantage points, offering a picturesque view as you walk down the street. The dome is adorned with colorful tiles that glisten in the sunlight, adding to the overall charm and beauty of the church. These vantage points provide an excellent opportunity to admire the architectural details and the harmonious blend of colors that make the Real Parroquia de Santa María Magdalena a unique visual experience among the surrounding city buildings.
Restaurante Depikofino
We decided to have lunch at Restaurante Depikofino, a charming spot located at Avenida de Eduardo Dato 29, in the Nervión section of Sevilla. This restaurant is known for its delightful Spanish cuisine, offering a variety of dishes such as tapas, rich salmorejo (a cold, creamy soup from Andalusia made from tomatoes, bread, olive oil, and garlic, and often garnished with hard-boiled eggs and cured ham), and perfectly cooked risotto with braised beef cheek (one of our favorites, locally called carrilladas, in contrast to other parts of Spain where it's called carrilleras). We couldn't resist trying their delicious Cruz Campo beer, which perfectly complemented our meal. We had made advanced reservations because it's a popular spot, especially before an afternoon Sevilla FC soccer match.
We chose Restaurante Depikofino for its convenient location near the Ramón Sanchez-Pizjuan Stadium and the beautiful Buhaira Gardens, making it an ideal spot to relax and enjoy a meal before or after exploring these nearby attractions. The restaurant's cozy atmosphere and friendly staff made our lunch experience truly enjoyable. We had plenty of time to share stories and connect over a tasty lunch in one of their small interior dining rooms.
Sevilla Match
We went to the afternoon Sevilla FC match against Rayo Vallecano, one of the teams from Madrid, and it was absolutely one of the highlights of the trip. The stadium was very nice and we got some great photos and videos during the game. We had really nice seats just three or four rows back from where they do the corner kicks. During the game, several of the players who were not on field were doing drills on the sideline in our corner. This was very entertaining to watch, especially when the action was at the other end of the field. We're very used to attending sporting events in the US where it's very typical to have a few beers during the game. So, it's worth noting that they don't sell alcoholic beverages at the stadium and you can't bring your own in. Also, they won't let you bring certain items into the stadium such as metal water bottles, helmets, and other random items. Don't fret if you forget because they'll hold it in a locked room for you at no cost and give you a claim check to pick it up after the game.
We absolutely recommend seeing a soccer match, either Sevilla FC or Real Betis or both. Real Betis is one of the teams associated with Triana and generally the working class. They are rivals with Sevilla FC. So, if you happen to be going to Sevilla when the they play against each other in the "Seville Derby" (El Gran Derbi), you'll probably be in for a treat. Be sure to sit on the side with like-minded fans, especially if you plan to wear your team's gear. This is serious business! In 2025 it's scheduled for March 30th, a wonderful time to be in Sevilla.
Jardines de Buhaira
The Jardines de Buhaira, also known as the Buhaira Gardens, are a historic and picturesque public park located very close to Restaurante Depikofino where we had lunch and about a ten minute walk from the soccer stadium. It was on our way back to the center and we were on foot. By the time we entered the park the sun had gone down and the park was beautifully lit. So, we got to experience it at a wonderful time of day.
Originally created in the 12th century by the Almohad caliph Abu Yaqub Yusuf, these gardens were designed as a royal retreat and featured lush greenery, artificial lakes, and a grand palace. After the Reconquista (the historical period when Christian kingdoms gradually retook the Iberian Peninsula from the Muslim Moors), the gardens fell into disrepair but were later restored and expanded. Key historic buildings within the gardens include the Mudéjar palace, which stands over the foundations of an earlier Almohad palace (The Almohads were a Muslim dynasty and Berber confederation that ruled in North Africa and Spain from the 12th to 13th centuries.). The gardens also feature restored remains of the original Almohad pavilion, offering a glimpse into the past. The Buhaira Gardens are a perfect blend of history, culture, and natural beauty. (Source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Buhaira_Gardens, downloaded 2 Feb 2025)
Our daughter had recently attended a class in these gardens where she learned about the Mudéjar palace, it's history and architectural features, and a curious story about people swimming in the restored artificial pond on the right side of the palace. Then we wandered through the gardens, planted with orange and olive trees. It was really a nice way to spend half an hour. We'll definitely return someday during the day time to see it in a different light. There is a terrace on the west side of the gardens where you can get refreshments if you wish. The park is due east of the Cathedral and an easy twenty minute walk.
Tapas - En La Espero Te Esquina
After the gardens we returned to our hotel to freshen up a bit before heading out for a dinner of tapas in the Santa Cruz neighborhood. Our daughter took us to one of her favorite places for tapas, En La Espero Te Esquina, a non-sensical name that we assume had been uttered mistakenly by someone years ago. It would make more sense as Te Espero En La Esquina which means I'll wait for you on the corner. Anyway, we sat at a table and ordered an abundant selection of tapas to share with wine and beer, yes more Cruz Campo, the beer of Sevilla.
All in all this was a terrific and fun-filled first full day in Sevilla (how's that for alliteration?). And we met our goal of staying up until the local bed time for the second night in a row to combat our jet lag and get our bodies more accustomed to the local clock. If you happen to be in Sevilla on a Sunday during the soccer season, you could easily use this as your agenda for the the the day.
This was just day one of our seven day adventure. Be sure to look for our future chronicles of our trip to Sevilla, Spain!
Are you planning a trip to Sevilla? Let us know what info you found helpful and what you're looking forward to in Sevilla.
Comentários