First, A Very Brief History of Salamanca
Salamanca's Old City, located northwest of Madrid, has a storied past beginning with its Carthaginian conquest in the 3rd century BC. It evolved from a Roman settlement to Moorish control until the 11th century. The city’s golden age was marked by the flourishing of its ancient university, one of the oldest in Europe. Its historic center is rich in Romanesque, Gothic, Moorish, Renaissance, and Baroque architecture, with the Plaza Mayor standing out for its striking galleries and arcades.
I love Salamanca so much that I’ve visited five times. I've had the pleasure of visiting with different groups each time; a few times just for the day and other times overnight. A friend and I recently reminisced about a weekend trip when we were in college. On that trip we got to know some of the local college haunts and sing with the Tuna Universitaria (I'll tell you more about this special university musical group later). This was my third visit. We stayed overnight at a hotel room that looked out onto the Plaza Mayor, I think from the north side in the east corner. I don't know how I remember. I just do. I had visited Salamanca twice previously on cultural/educational visits. This time was mostly to have fun and get to know the city on a different level. And we did! No matter what your plans, it's sort of difficult not to see the historic sites from the street. Such a beautiful, enriching, and fun place to visit!
Another visit, the first one, was on a university excursion from Madrid when I was taken to every important landmark in the city and told about their history and importance. On trips like this during my student days I usually sat at the front of the tour bus and frequently found myself standing very close to the tour guide. I didn't want to miss anything and being in the back of the group is distracting for me. Maybe this is why I remember the key info.
Most recently my wife and I went on a more laid back visit, enjoyed a leisurely lunch, and then headed to the old city (casco antiguo) to take it all in. On that visit in September 2024, I shared with her my memories of past visits to Salamanca during the afternoon before heading to the next stop on our journey. In the following paragraphs I'll share some interesting things about this place that you might not otherwise learn. Then I'll provide key details about the main places of interest in Salamanca.
Tormes River, Roman Bridge
The Tormes River runs through Salamanca, and one of its most iconic landmarks is the Roman Bridge (Puente Romano). This picturesque stone, arched bridge is believed to date back to the first century AD, during the reign of Emperor Trajan. It's also known as the Puente Mayor del Tormes.
The bridge is both a historical marvel and a vital part of Salamanca's cultural heritage. It was declared an Artistic Historic Monument in 1931 and an Asset of Cultural Interest in 1998. Now, it serves as a pedestrian walkway, offering stunning views of the Tormes River and the surrounding historic architecture.
The first time I walked across this bridge was back in the late 1980's when I was told about its history and significance. Four decades is a long time to remember details like this. Suffice it to say that I remembered the highlights, but had to reacquaint myself with some of the details mentioned above; learning a bit more in the process.
Lazarillo de Tormes
Several decades ago, I had the pleasure of reading "Lazarillo de Tormes” while I was studying Spanish literature. Rather than digging out my dusty notes from decades ago, I took the easy way out and asked Microsoft CoPilot for the following synopsis on 2 December 2024.
“‘Lazarillo de Tormes’ is a trailblazing Spanish novella from the 16th century that launched the picaresque literary genre, characterized by a roguish protagonist living by his wits in a corrupt society. The story follows Lázaro, a poor boy from Salamanca, who learns to navigate life's challenges through a series of masters he serves. Salamanca, with its ancient university and rich cultural backdrop, profoundly influences the narrative. The city's stark contrasts between grandeur and poverty mirror Lázaro's own struggles and cunning adaptability. This setting adds depth to Lázaro's journey, painting a vivid picture of social hierarchies and survival in Spain's Golden Age. The novel's candid portrayal of hardship and satire of societal norms resonates with readers, making "Lazarillo de Tormes" a timeless classic that captures the essence of Salamanca and its impact on shaping the protagonist's life.“
Tuna Universitaria de Salamanca
The Tuna Universitaria de Salamanca is one of the oldest and most prestigious student musical group in Spain, founded in the late 19th century. Similar Tuna groups exist at other universities, each bringing their unique flair to the tradition. The Tuna’s origins date back to medieval times when poor students would perform music in exchange for food and money to support their studies. Members wear distinctive costumes, including black capes adorned with colorful ribbons representing their academic achievements and university. They perform traditional songs, dances, and folk music, creating a lively atmosphere wherever they go. If you’re going to Salamanca, you might get to see them perform as they rove around the city.
Architectural Styles
Before I get to the places of interest, I want to provide a brief description of some architectural styles represented in Salamanca. Feel free to skip this section if you are already knowledgeable in this area.
Romanesque (10th - 12th centuries):
Characterized by semi-circular arches, thick walls, sturdy pillars, large towers, and decorative arcading.
Often seen in churches, monasteries, and castles.
Gothic (12th - 16th centuries):
Features include pointed arches, ribbed vaults, flying buttresses, and large stained glass windows.
Prominent in cathedrals and large churches.
Renaissance (15th - 17th centuries):
Marked by symmetry, proportion, geometry, and the regularity of parts as demonstrated in classical Roman architecture.
Seen in palaces and churches.
Plateresque (late 15th - mid-16th centuries):
A blend of Gothic and Renaissance elements with elaborate ornamentation resembling silver work (plata means silver in Spanish).
Notable in facades and buildings.
Baroque (17th - 18th centuries):
Known for its exuberant details, grandeur, drama, and movement; large-scale ceiling frescoes and bold contrasts.
Churrigueresque (late 17th - early 18th centuries):
An extreme variant of Spanish Baroque with lavish decoration, twisted columns, and intricate plasterwork.
Mudejar (12th - 17th centuries):
A style influenced by Islamic art and architecture, characterized by horseshoe arches, intricate tile work, and geometric motifs.
Common in synagogues, churches, and palaces.
Key places of Interest in Salamanca
Plaza Mayor
Designed by Alberto Churriguera in Baroque style, it is one of Spain’s most beautiful squares. It features a City Hall with granite arches and a steeple adorned with allegorical figures. The square, with its three-story buildings and semicircular arches, remains one of Salamanca’s most lively and popular areas. The cover photo of this article is the main façade on the north side of the plaza. I only photographed the upper part as there was scaffolding in the center of the plaza blocking my view. They were possibly preparing for a festival. The photo does capture the beauty of the architecture.
The plaza is truly an impressive square with dimensions of approximately 70 meters by 70 meters. It features 88 arches and 247 balconies, making it a stunning example of Spanish Baroque architecture. The arches are adorned by medallions representing notable figures from Spanish history. For instance, the Pabellón Real (Royal Pavilion) showcases medallions of Spanish monarchs, including Alfonso XI, Pedro I, and Isabel I (the Catholic Monarchs).
This is a place to meet, hang out, have food and refreshments, and do some shopping. I've enjoyed this vibrant, beautiful place a number of times over the years and it never disappoints!
Casa de las Conchas
A late 15th-century Gothic building with Renaissance and Mudéjar elements, it is known for its façade decorated with over 300 shells. Although the upper part was remodeled in the 18th century, its Gothic entrance door with a fleur-de-lis coat of arms remains a highlight. Today, it serves as Salamanca’s public library.
I remember being at the front of our school tour group, as I usually was, learning about this unique place. When my wife and I visited a few months ago I had the pleasure of showing it to her at the beginning of our visit. We took a few moments to enter and see the courtyard after viewing all the shells adorning the exterior and inspecting the entrance door. We think you'll like discovering this place on your own or with a guide.
La Clerecía
Built in the 17th century under Queen Margarita of Austria and designed by Juan Gomez de Mora, this Baroque structure includes a church, school, and a large three-story cloister. It now houses the Salamanca Pontifical University, and visitors can enjoy panoramic views from the Scala Coeli towers. When we visited in September, our timing was a bit off. So, we weren't able to go up and check out the views.
Salamanca’s Cathedrals
No, the plural in the title is not a typo! The Cathedral of Salamanca really comprises two connected Cathedrals: the Old Cathedral, built in the 12th-13th centuries with Romanesque features, and the New Cathedral, completed in the 18th century with Baroque details. The Old Cathedral includes a notable reredos and tombs, while the New Cathedral features a Baroque retrochoir with Renaissance images. We took the time to visit both during our recent visit. It's a unique experience to see two connected sacred spaces from different time periods. I think you'll enjoy spending time here on your visit, discovering the many details about both spaces.
What is a Reredo?
A reredo (or reredos) is an ornate screen or decorated wall behind the altar in a church. It often features intricate carvings, sculptures, and paintings that depict religious scenes, saints, or biblical stories. The purpose of a reredo is to enhance the visual focus on the altar and add to the spiritual atmosphere of the worship space. The middle photo in the gallery above is the altarpiece or reredo of the Old Cathedral of Salamanca. It took 20 years to create its 53 panels and it was completed in 1450. The photo doesn't do it justice.
Other Places of Interest
University of Salamanca Senior Schools
The Frog of the University of Salamanca (Rana de la Universidad de Salamanca) is a small frog sculpture situated on the facade of the University of Salamanca's Senior Schools (Escuelas Mayores) building. Despite actually being a toad, it's commonly referred to as a frog. This little sculpture holds significant legend and superstition. It is believed that students who find the frog will have good luck and academic success, especially before exams. The facade of the university, completed in 1553, features the frog above one of the three skulls carved into the stone. Finding the frog has become a cherished tradition for tourists and students alike, symbolizing both good fortune and, according to some interpretations, the medieval association of frogs with the sin of lust.
If you'd like to try to find it, the frog is located in the part of town between the Casa de las Conchas and the Cathedrals. You can find it at C. de la Compañía, 5 and by looking closely at the image immediately above.
Enjoy the hunt, and best of luck in finding the famous frog!
Palacio de Monterrey
Designed by Rodrigo Gil de Hontañón in 1539, it is a notable example of Renaissance architecture. Its stone façade combines classical and Mudejar elements, while the grand entrance and central courtyard reflect its historical importance. It was built by the III Count of Monterrey and is currently owned by the House of Alba. The palace serves as a family house but is open to visitors with guided tours available.
Visitors to the Monterrey Palace are captivated by its stunning Spanish Plateresque architecture from the 16th century. The intricate details of the palace, including loggias and grotesque carvings, are particularly praised. The historical rooms, adorned with tapestries and coats of arms, offer a fascinating glimpse into the aristocratic history of the House of Alba. Additionally, the guided tours are highly appreciated as they provide valuable insights into the palace's rich history and architectural significance. If you plan to spend a few days in Salamanca, this might be for you!
Las Úrsulas Convent
This convent, dedicated to the Annunciation and known as "Las Ursulas," is inhabited by cloistered nuns of the Third Order of Saint Francis. Founded in 1490 by Archbishop Alonso de Fonseca y Acevedo, it was intended as a burial place where nuns would pray for his soul. The building features a polygonal apse with thick buttresses, originally topped with pinnacles, removed in the 17th century and covered with a roof. The facade displays Fonseca's coat of arms. The church has a single nave with star-ribbed vaults and a higher polygonal main chapel. The tomb of Fonseca, crafted by Diego de Siloé in white Macael marble, is in the church center. Hidden during the War of Independence, it was restored to its original location in 1928. The Lower Choir houses a small museum with beautiful Mudejar ceilings and decorative painting remains. I have yet to visit this convent but will the next time I'm in Salamanca, for sure.
Las Dueñas Convent
The Convent of Las Dueñas is a female Dominican convent in Salamanca, Spain. Founded in 1419 by Juana Rodríguez Maldonado, wife of Fernando Alfonso de Olivera, in the houses built by her first husband, Juan Sánchez de Sevilla, it was intended as a retreat for noble women. The convent, soon inhabited by Dominican nuns, includes remains of a 14th-century Mudejar palace, such as a pointed horseshoe arch in the upper cloister, and the novitiate dormitory, which was the main room of the house. In 1533, the temple and cloister were built, overlaying the existing structures. I haven't seen the inside of this convent. On my first visit to Salamanca our guide took us here to purchase "nun cookies." You can still do this today. In 2018 I visited with my son and we bought a couple of boxes of cookies to have as treats during the rest of our journey around Spain. If you go, this is a fun thing to do!
Colegio Mayor de Arzobispo Fonseca
Constructed in 1538 by Don Alfonso de Fonseca y Acebedo and designed by Diego de Siloé, it features a courtyard surrounded by ogival vaults and a two-story gallery with semicircular and segmental arches. The main façade includes sculptures of notable figures, and the chapel’s altarpiece by Alonso Berruguete is a highlight. It currently serves as a university residence.
Palacio de Anaya
Founded in 1762 and designed by José Hermosilla, it is a prime example of neoclassical architecture. Its main façade includes Ionic columns, a triangular pediment, and a broad staircase. The building’s central courtyard and double gallery are supported by Doric and Ionic-composite columns, and it now houses the Faculty of Philology at the University of Salamanca.
Garden of Calixto and Melibea
The Huerto de Calixto y Melibea (Garden of Calixto and Melibea) is a charming spot in Salamanca, named after the lovers from the famous Spanish tragicomedy "La Celestina" by Fernando de Rojas. Nestled beside the old city walls, this garden offers a romantic and peaceful atmosphere, making it a favorite among locals and visitors alike. After you tour the cathedrals you’ll find it nearby. During our September 2025 visit, we wandered around this charming garden for 20 minutes or so. It's such a tranquil spot and worth a bit of your time.
The Food Scene in Salamanca
In and around the Plaza Mayor you’ll find restaurants and bars for tapas and other refreshments. You might find it difficult to find food in between the normal Spanish meal times. Some kitchens will be closed between 4PM and 8 or 9PM, so, plan accordingly.
There are also plenty of bakeries offering sweet and savory treats. We think you’ll like the hornazo. Hornazo is a savory pastry stuffed with pork, chorizo, and boiled eggs. It’s a local delicacy that you should try if you have a chance.
We visited in September 2024 and had a lovely gourmet lunch at Restaurante La Hoja 21 in the south end of the old city on Plaza Colón. If you go, be sure to make a reservation in advance because it’s very popular among locals. There are many places for tapas and other refreshments in and around the old city.
More Info
Spain.info has so much great information about what to see and do in Salamanca; more than we have space for here. If you plan to visit for more than a day, there you'll find some great information on where to have tapas and go shopping.
Getting There from Madrid
High-speed AVE trains (1 hour 30 minutes) and buses (2 hours 30 minutes) connect Madrid and Salamanca. The distance makes it possible to do a day trip to Salamanca from Madrid. If you decide to do this rather than staying a couple of days, be sure to purchase your train tickets in advance. We recommend an early train from Madrid in the morning with the return getting into Madrid in the late evening. This will allow you a full day in Salamanca to enjoy it leisurely, savoring all the city has to offer. And you'll be back in Madrid for a fun dinner of tapas!
To wrap up, Salamanca stands as a testament to Spain's diverse history, blending ancient traditions with modern vibrancy. From the scholarly echoes of its prestigious university to the timeless charm of its architectural beauty, every corner of Salamanca invites exploration and discovery. Whether you're strolling across the Roman Bridge, marveling at the shells of the façade of Casa de las Conchas, or enjoying the lively atmosphere of Plaza Mayor, Salamanca promises an unforgettable experience.
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