There's a Party in the Puerta del Sol
I confess that I sort of stole the title of this post from a newer song by Mar Lucas. Her song has the refrain “Hay, hay, hay party en la Puerta del Sol” which essentially means “there’s a party in the Puerta del Sol. Look for it on Spotify. If you enjoy artists like Enrique Iglesias, you'll probably enjoy her music too.
A Center of Activity
No matter how long or short your visit to Madrid, you're likely to pass through La Puerta del Sol (some sources say it was named for a gateway that was there until 1510). It's one of the main squares in the city center and it's bustling with activity throughout the day and night. As long as I have been going to Madrid, this has been the case. It is a beautiful plaza, most recently renovated in 2023. The most notable change was to reroute the vehicle traffic that used to run across the south end of the plaza along the Calle Mayor. You may encounter the occasional municipal vehicle, but that’s it.
To say it’s a center of activity would be an understatement. If you happen to be in Madrid for Easter, religious processions will pass through this square. It's also where many people go to ring in the New Year. Political and Social manifestations are held here too. Throughout history it has been a center of economic and intellectual activity. And the Puerta del Sol is a typical meeting spot, maybe by one of the fountains or by the statue of the bear and the madroño tree (the symbol of Madrid).
The Rising Sun
About 165 years ago the first renovations were done, enlarging the plaza on the north side, giving it a curved shape and uniform architecture. Ever since then, the birds-eye view of the plaza looks like a sun rising on the horizon. One of the first buildings to be completed back then was the building on the east side of the plaza where you'll now find the Apple store. For most of its history to date, that building was the home of the Grand Hôtel de Paris, one of the first grand hotels in the city and, according to Wikipedia, the first one that had a bathroom in every room and room service. And the famous Tío Pepe sign was perched atop this building until it was recently moved to another building on the north side of the plaza.
Curiously, when I was studying in Madrid in 1987, some friends were planning to visit me during their spring break. They asked me to find them a good place to stay. And after looking at several hotels I landed on Hotel Paris, which by then was a three-star hotel, still impeccably clean and accommodating. You see, when hotels like the Ritz and the Palace opened, they sort of eclipsed the popularity of the Grand Hôtel de Paris. After many years being the preferred lodging of prominent figures, its glory days eventually ended. Incidentally, the statue of the bear, although it has been moved from time to time, has generally been found at this end of the plaza and you can find it there today. If you need a meeting spot for your group, this would be a good one.
The Royal House of the Post Office
On the south side of the Plaza there's an old building in the Neoclassic style (think symmetry, balance, geometric shapes) with a clock tower. This is the oldest building on the Puerta del Sol dating back to the second half of the eighteenth century when it was the Royal House of the Post Office. It is now a municipal building and the location of the office of the President of the Community of Madrid. This is the clock used for ringing in the new year (oddly I’ve heard that its accuracy is questionable). From there, if you walk several paces toward the center of the plaza you will find the Km 0 plaque embedded in the ground masonry. This is symbolically where the radial highways of Spain converge. It might also be a good meeting spot, although you don’t see it until you are right upon it… so, maybe the bear is a better choice, or just say in front of the clock tower.
Dining Near the Puerta del Sol
In and around the Puerta del Sol you'll find various shops and restaurants, some of which are historic and well worth a visit or two or three. For pastries, everyone loves La Mallorquina on the west side of the plaza (we love the palmeras (aka elephant ear pastries). On the north side of the plaza you have El Corte Inglés, a large department store with everything. Go down the escalator to the basement where you will find a premium wine shop, gourmet food selections, a café, a cosmetic shop, and a large grocery store (which also has wine and beer, etc.).
From the southeast corner of the Puerta del Sol, go east on the Carrera de San Jerónimo. At the corner of Calle de la Victoria you will find the Museo del Jamón for tapas, or go a little farther down and on the right side of Carrera de San Jerónimo you will find a more formal restaurant, Lhardy, one of the oldest restaurants in Madrid established in 1839 (you will need a reservation).
Then, if you go south on the Calle de la Victoria you will find Casa del Abuelo, famous for their garlic shrimp (pictured above, the croquettes and manchego cheese were also very tasty).
Next turn right on Calle de la Cruz where you will find Casa Toni. This place is a little more rustic than others. But trust me, the tapas are very good, and the prices are very reasonable. You might have to wait a bit to get inside and find a spot. The last time we were there five of us ponied up to the bar and had a veritable feast of chopitos (tiny fried cuttlefish), some patatas bravas (fried potatoes with a spicy smoked paprika sauce), chorizo (not the kind we are used to in the US), and morcilla (blood sausage; I adore this) with bread to soak up the sauces and beer and wine to wash it all down. Writing this took me right back…to what was unfolding in these next few photos.
Churros with Chocolate
You may have heard of a little place for churros con chocolate called San Ginés. Well, that’s just around the corner too. The street that runs west, off the north corner of La Mallorquina is Calle del Arenal. Head west on Arenal and turn left on Pasadizo de San Ginés and you will find it. You can also head through one of the archways on the north side of the Plaza Mayor (the easternmost one), cross Calle Mayor, and head down the Calle de los Coloreros to get there. There may be a wait and sometimes there won’t be space in the original churrería. So, you'll have to sit at a table outside or in the newer space they opened across the street. If so, there won’t be the charm of the original place, with such a beautiful interior. There are other churrerías that will not have the wait. So, I’d say, go there but be prepared to make a change of plans and have a backup option.
I will close by saying that I get so energized in this part of town. There is always something interesting to see. And the bars, restaurants, and shops are abundant. Look for my previous blog post on La Plaza Mayor which is just steps away southwest of the Puerta del Sol. In future posts I will share more about the other areas in this part of the city.
Are you planning to try some of the places we wrote about in this post? Leave a comment and then come back to share your adventure with us!
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