Always Something New to Experience in Madrid
Madrid, the vibrant capital of Spain, never fails to surprise and delight visitors with its rich history, stunning architecture, and cultural treasures. For those who have explored this city multiple times, there always seems to be something new waiting to be discovered. We recently returned to Madrid for a couple of days where we experienced several things we hadn't previously, either because they opened since our last visit or because we were not able to fit them into our agenda.
Prereading for Newbies
If you've never been to Madrid or otherwise haven't been able to experience much while there, you'll also want to read the various other articles we've written about Madrid.
Faro de Moncloa
After checking into our hotel and freshening up, we headed over to meet a dear friend in the Argüelles neighborhood. From there it was a short walk to the Faro de Moncloa. The Faro de Moncloa is a notable observation tower in Madrid. Standing at 110 meters tall, it was built in 1992 and offers magnificent panoramic views of the city and its surroundings. For a small fee, you can take an elevator to the viewing platform, which provides a 360-degree perspective of Madrid, making it a popular spot for both tourists and locals.
The surrounding area features gardens and green spaces, adding to the appeal of the site. And it's in the University City area where you'll find student life and all that comes with it. The Faro de Moncloa is not only a great spot for sightseeing but also a significant landmark in Madrid's skyline, often associated with the city’s modern architecture. If you’re in Madrid, it's definitely worth a visit for the views and the unique experience!
Free City Buses!
In a previous article we wrote about two free buses that cross the city of Madrid; buses 001 and 002. Both originate or end in Moncloa, and the Faro is just a short walk from the bus stop.
Retiro Park: Old Favorites and New Experiences
In the afternoon we met some dear friends in Retiro Park. Before meeting them, we took the opportunity to photograph a few of our favorite spots in the park including the Fuente de los Galápagos (turtle-themed fountain), the Fuente de la Alcachofa (artichoke-themed fountain), and the Paseo de las Estatuas (promenade lined with statues of royalty). Thirteen of the statues were originally on top of the Royal Palace of Madrid: Fernando IV, Enrique II, García I, Urraca I, Berenguela I, Alfonso I of Aragon, Chintila, Ramón Berenguer IV, Carlos I, Carlos II, Gundemaro, and the two statues of Sancho IV. One is much newer and was installed in 2021: The Queen Juana I of Castilla.
Then it was time to meet our friends. We chose the meeting spot because it was a section of the park we were less familiar with. We headed to the northeast corner of the park to explore the Montaña Artificial (artificial mountain; it's more of a little hill and you can go inside), the Casita del Pescador (Fisherman's House), and the Ruins of the Hermitage of San Isidoro. The Hermitage of San Isidoro, originally the church of San Pelayo and San Isidoro, was a medieval Romanesque Catholic temple in Ávila, built in the 13th century outside the city walls near the Malaventura gate. It was moved to Retiro Park in Madrid in 1896 and now occasionally serves as the backdrop for wedding photos.
If you've ever traveled with a group, you know that some people like to sleep in or wake up gradually, while others get up and go. If you're the early riser of the group, don't let this frustrate you. Build the day's agenda so that it works for everyone. Then use the mornings to explore while others are waking up. This is a wonderful time to see things in a different light (literally and figuratively).
Early Morning Opportunities in Central Madrid
Earlier this year we wrote an article about La Puerta del Sol. We wrote "on the south side of the Plaza there is an old building in the Neoclassic style with a clock tower. This is the oldest building on the Puerta del Sol dating back to the second half of the eighteenth century when it was the Royal House of the Post Office. It is now a municipal building and the location of the office of the President of the Community of Madrid." This building has a guard standing at the entrance and several yards directly in front of it is where you'll find the famous Km0 marker. During most of the day and night this area is crowded with tourists. Not so just after sunrise. At that time of the day there's nobody except the guard. We approached, said buenos días to the guard, and started to take some photos. He smiled and told us that this was usually not possible.
Another morning we found the Plaza de la Villa empty and took some photos there. Plaza de la Villa is one of Madrid’s best-preserved historical sites, located a short distance west of the Plaza Mayor on the south side of Calle Mayor. It was once home to Madrid City Council and served as a central hub in medieval times. The square features three historically significant buildings: the 15th-century Lujanes house and tower in Gothic-Mudéjar style, the 16th-century Plateresque Casa de Cisneros, and the 17th-century Baroque Casa de la Villa. The square adopted its current name in the 15th century, and a monument to Admiral Don Álvaro de Bazán was inaugurated in 1891, surrounded today by an ornamental flower garden. This plaza is usually included on walking tours of the city.
We also walked down to the area by the Royal Palace and the Almudena Cathedral, specifically looking for a vantage point for good photos. We had seen evidence on social media of a footpath just east of this complex. We found it! We walked along the path to just the right place to capture these images. Whenever we travel, we take advantage of the quiet time in the morning to experience places in a more serene way.
A Newer Museum in Madrid
The Galería de las Colecciones Reales, a wonderful art gallery located in the heart of Madrid, is relatively new. It opened in mid-2023, not long after our previous visit to the city. This gem of a museum houses a stunning collection of artworks that once belonged to the Spanish royal family. As we wandered through the gallery, we were captivated by masterpieces from renowned artists such as Velázquez, Goya, and El Greco. The exquisite paintings, sculptures, and decorative arts on display provided a fascinating glimpse into Spain's royal heritage and artistic legacy.
The museum is divided into three sections. The first floor is dedicated to the Hapsburg dynasty (Los Austrias; 1516-1700), the second floor is all about the Bourbon dynasty (1700 to the present day but with various interruptions), and the third floor is temporary exhibit space and includes "the Cube" area. "The Cube" is a modern architectural feature. It serves as a multifunctional space, often used for temporary exhibitions, educational activities, and special events. The gallery spaces are actually below the entrance level. So, -1 is the first floor, -2 is the second floor, and so forth. You can use large ramp walkways or the elevators to move between floors. And the design of the museum itself is a work of art.
From mid-October 2024 to February 2025, the temporary exhibition hall at the Royal Collections Gallery is scheduled to host "Sorolla: One Hundred Years of Modernity," marking the centenary of the Valencian painter's death. Organized by Patrimonio Nacional and Light Art Exhibitions in collaboration with the Sorolla Museum, the exhibition features 77 works by the artist, including both famous pieces and those rarely seen in Spain. This is a great opportunity because the Sorolla Museum in Madrid, one of our favorites, is currently closed for restoration and an expansion project.
Beautiful Basilica in La Latina Neighborhood
The Basilica de San Francisco el Grande was also on our agenda. We had planned to see it on Sunday morning after the church service. But we changed it to Monday due to a scheduling conflict. As a result, we weren't able to see the inside because it is closed on Mondays. We had forgotten this when we revised our itinerary. So, we'll see the inside on our next visit. Some feel that this is one of the most impressive and beautiful sacred spaces in Madrid. It boasts a stunning combination of architectural styles.
What did we miss? The highlight, according to many, is the stunning dome, adorned with a magnificent fresco depicting the glory of St. Francis. What did we experience? The basilica is located in the La Latina section of the city and less than a 15 minute walk south from the Almudena Cathedral. It has a lovely garden on the south side of the Basilica. And we found a great little local bar (Cafetería San Francisco 13) where they made a perfect café con leche (we like them hot) and tortilla de patata, just what we wanted for breakfast! Heading north back toward the Almudena Cathedral you can get beautiful photos of the Cathedral from a vantage point missed by many visitors.
Madrid is a city full of surprises, where each visit reveals new experiences and treasures. Our recent trip led us to iconic spots like the Faro de Moncloa and the Plaza de la Villa, as well as serene moments in Retiro Park. We explored vibrant neighborhoods and discovered the newly opened Galería de las Colecciones Reales, showcasing Spain's royal art legacy. Despite some missed opportunities, such as seeing the interior of the Basilica de San Francisco el Grande, we relished the city's rich history and culture. Whether you're a first-time visitor or a returning traveler, Madrid never fails to enchant.
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