Cáceres, Spain is a beautiful city and worth a visit, especially if you're a history buff. We were recently in Sevilla and decided to take a trip north by car through western Spain. Cáceres was our first stop and it was a wonderful choice. Be sure to read to the end where we'll share a few words to the wise.
Interesting finds in Cáceres
Cáceres has a Parador, a nationally run hotel in a historic building. In our experience, the Spanish Paradores have comfortable accommodations and very good restaurants. Near the Parador we stumbled upon a restaurant with three Michelin stars: Atrio. We weren't aware of this ahead of time, or we might have tried to dine there. It was fully booked... We've learned our lesson and now check the Michelin app before heading to a new destination.
Some Cáceres History
Cáceres, was historically a site of conflict between Moors and Christians, leading to the construction of Almohad fortifications like the Torre Mochada and Torre del Bujaco. The city was reclaimed from the Moors in 1229, which attracted new settlers who built their homes, palaces, and towers in various architectural styles. Today, Cáceres’ architecture showcases a mix of Roman, Islamic, Northern Gothic, and Italian Renaissance influences.
What is an Almohad Fortification?
We asked MS CoPilot for definition and this is what it provided (we knew this but wanted a well articulated definition for you): "An Almohad fortification refers to a type of defensive structure built during the Almohad Caliphate, which was a Muslim dynasty that ruled parts of North Africa and the Iberian Peninsula (modern-day Spain and Portugal) from the 12th to the 13th centuries. These fortifications were characterized by their robust construction, strategic location, and distinctive architectural features influenced by Islamic and Berber styles. Key elements of Almohad fortifications include: Massive Stone Walls: Built with large stone blocks and often reinforced with additional materials for added strength. Towers: Square or rectangular towers were integrated into the walls to provide lookout points and defensive positions. Gates and Arches: Intricately designed gateways and arches, often adorned with decorative elements, served as entrances and exits. Bastions and Ramparts: Protruding structures designed to provide better defensive capabilities and to house artillery. Keep (or central stronghold): The innermost part of the fortification, often used as a last line of defense. These fortifications were not only military structures but also symbols of Almohad power and architectural prowess."
To fully appreciate Cáceres’ old town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it’s best explored on foot, as many areas are pedestrian-only, preserving its medieval allure. The Plaza Mayor, a key historical site, was established in the 12th century for an annual fair and later surrounded by arcades in the 15th century. It's one of Spain's largest squares (several cities make this claim) and features the Arch of La Estrella. From here, you can view medieval buildings and the Torre de la Yerba, and the nearby Town Hall is located to the south.
Charming Old World Sites of Interest in Cáceres
If you visit the official website, you will find links to quite a few sites of interest in Cáceres. We'll just focus on a few of the more notable places.
The Arco de la Estrella, a 15th-century arch next to the Torre de Bujaco, was remodeled in the 18th century and features Cáceres’ coat of arms. It was famously depicted in the TV series "Game of Thrones." You can walk along the top of its wall to get some interesting views. We did this. It was worth the €3 to enter, which gave us both access to the tower and the walk along the top of the wall. The steps to the top of the tower are very narrow with a low ceiling. But there were only maybe ten steps. And the panoramic views of the city were spectacular. A bonus was the nice breeze which helped us cool down a bit from the hot weather.
We've heard that the Museo de Cáceres showcases Extremadura's history from the Paleolithic era to the present. The museum is set in two historic buildings in the Old Town. The Palace of Las Veletas showcases archaeology and ethnography, while the House of Los Caballos holds its Fine Arts collection. A standout feature is the aljibe, a Hispano-Muslim cistern under the Renaissance cloister of the Palace of Las Veletas. It’s one of Spain’s best-preserved examples and collects rain through its arches. Before entering, check out the museum’s facade, with its detailed gargoyles, colorful ceramic trim, and impressive shields by the entrance.
The Concatedral de Santa María, one of Cáceres’ oldest buildings, was constructed in the 15th century in Gothic style. It features a Renaissance tower that offers panoramic views. We spent about half an hour here. The €7 ticket included the use of an audioguide which was very informative.
After visiting the main part of the concatedral, we almost left without heading up the tower. The attendant intervened and pointed us toward the stairway. We were so glad we went up. Although the tower isn't very tall, it offers nearly 360-degree views of the city and surrounding landscape. It was a beautiful, clear day with a magnificent blue sky, enhancing the experience. You can buy tickets online. But the site is only in Spanish and you can probably just purchase them at the door.
Nearby, the Palacio de Carvajal, also known as 'the Burnt House' due to a 19th-century fire, was built by the Carvajal family in the 15th century. Inside the house, you'll find a rectangular cloister with arcades supported by columns. Notable features include a 12th-century round tower made of small stone blocks, which originally housed the palace chapel and is adorned with intriguing frescoes. Be sure to visit the garden, where a prominent fig tree stands out as a prime example of the lush, interior green spaces typical of the monumental city’s historic buildings. As a bonus, entrance is free!
The Palacio de los Golfines de Abajo features one of Cáceres' most stunning facades, blending Gothic, Renaissance, and Plateresque styles. Its design includes alfiz (arched frames), paired windows, shields, classical medallions, and griffins at the top. This facade is among the most iconic and widely reproduced in various media such as paintings, photographs, and films. The palace was not open when we were there. So, we weren't able to go in. According to its website, it should have been open for just a small fee. If you go, maybe you'll have better luck.
Another notable palatial building is the Palacio de Godoy, completed in 1548 by Francisco de Godoy Aldana. Its Renaissance façade, with classical and Mudejar elements, and grand entrance with elegant arches, highlights its historical grandeur. Like many of the sites of interest, this one was not open to the public. But, honestly, we really enjoyed seeing it from the outside.
The Casa Museo Árabe Yusuf Al Burch, restored by José de la Torre Gentil in the 1960s, offers a superb example of Almohad architecture near the Plaza de San Jorge. It includes restored spaces like the entrance hall, tea room, courtyard, harem, and hammam. The various rooms in this building have been meticulously arranged to create an authentic historical atmosphere that truly transports you back in time. Take the opportunity to explore how the affluent Arab society lived in Cáceres through the original architecture and artifacts donated to the museum. You can purchase tickets at the door for just €2, or for €4.50 you can do a 30-minute guided tour. You may have to make arrangements ahead of time, though.
Folk Dance Performance
Aside from visiting and viewing the historical sites, we really enjoyed the views and just enjoying refreshments in the Plaza Mayor. On the afternoon of our visit a local folklore group did a show of music and dancing in front of the Arco de la Estrella and it was magical. To say we enjoyed this would be a tremendous understatement. One of the things we love about Spanish people is the way they embrace tradition. Watching the folk dancers perform was a real treat and we were glad to be able to thank one of the dancers later in the evening.
Restaurante Figón de Eustaquío
Our lunch at Restaurante Figón de Eustaquío was delicious and our waiter was very friendly. He was from San Sebastian and was thrilled to know we'd visited there. Our dinner of tapas at Restaurante Centro was also quite good and the service was perfect. Both places were in the Plaza San Juan, just a few minutes walk from the Plaza Mayor. We had terrace tables and enjoyed each other's company while watching local life unfold.
Words to the Wise
Limited Accessibility in Cáceres
Cáceres can be challenging to navigate, with numerous steps and narrow spaces. Even our lovely hotel in the center might be challenging for some guests.
The most common way to enter the old city is through the Arco de la Estrella and you must walk up steps to get there from the Plaza Mayor. There are alternative routes, though. But be prepared to walk up and down narrow, sloping, cobblestone streets. Some of the sites listed above are not accessible by tourists, but you can see them from the outside. Others only have signage in Spanish. So, Google Translate will be your friend.
Our Accommodations in Cáceres
We stayed at the NH Collection Palacio de Oquendo. The accommodations were very nice and comfortable. We had a large room with a view and the hotel was just a two minute walk from the Plaza Mayor; where most visitors would want to start their tour. The various terrace restaurants in the triangular plaza in front of the hotel were convenient, and shopping was just around the corner on Calle Pintores. We had reserved a different hotel based on our reading of another blog. But when we looked at the map, we noticed that it was a much longer walk from the historic area. So we cancelled and booked this place.
The hotel didn’t have parking. But they did send us around the corner and up the block to a parking garage. It was just a short walk back to the hotel. From the front desk to our room it was necessary to use a couple of short flights of stairs. This might be a challenge for some. So check with the hotel about accessible accommodations before you reserve if needed.
Booking a Hotel in Spain
We tend to book hotels at the hotel website. In Spain, it seems like the best rates are the ones where you pay ahead and the cancellations are non-refundable. With this in mind, we generally pay a little more for the ability to cancel without penalty and to pay at check in or shortly prior to arrival. Many hotels have memberships that you can join during the reservation process and get a five or ten percent discount. This can make the price similar to the non-refundable rate. And we find them to be the same or better than what we find on travel booking sites. We suggest using travel booking sites to find a hotel and then booking directly on the hotel site.
You Should Visit!
If you have the opportunity to visit Cáceres, we think you'll enjoy its historic charm. Its unique blend of architectural styles and medieval ambiance makes it a wonderful stop on a journey through Spain. Despite the challenges of navigating its cobblestone paths and occasional accessibility issues, the city's treasures, from its stunning towers to its atmospheric plazas, offer an experience. Whether you're exploring ancient fortifications or savoring local cuisine, Cáceres promises a delightful adventure for history enthusiasts and casual travelers alike. So, lace up your walking shoes, prepare for a step back in time, and immerse yourself in the timeless allure of this enchanting Spanish gem.
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